During our visit to Brazil’s National Museum, we learned two especially interesting facts. Beginning in 1549 Brazil was a Portuguese colony like others in North and South America. It was used for the products (sugar cane and gold) that could be sent back to enrich Portugal. Things changed in 1808, the Portuguese court, fleeing from Napoleon’s invasion of Portugal established themselves in the city of Rio de Janeiro. From there the Portuguese king ruled his huge empire for 15 years, and when the King returned to Portugal, his elder son, Pedro, stayed in his stead as regent of Brazil. That’s pretty amazing when you think about it, it would be like the British royal family ruling from the United States.

One fact that has shaped Brazil is that about sixty percent of African slaves were sent to Brazil making it the largest importer of slaves in the Americas. The city of Salvador was Brazil’s epicenter of the slave trade (and original capital) and today it’s the Afro-Brazilan soul of the country, where the descendants of slaves preserve their African culture more than anywhere else in the New World, creating thriving culinary, religious, musical, dance and martial arts traditions. Salvador’s vibrant historic center, the Pelourinho, is a treat for the senses with its thundering percussion and renovated colonial architecture.

Salvador developed on two levels. A sharp escarpment divides its Lower Town (Cidade Baixa) from its Upper Town (Cidade Alta). The Elevador Lacerda, Brazil’s first elevator, has connected the two since 1873. So for about seven cents (.15 Real) we could take the elevator from one section to the other. It’s a good thing for the elevator because it is a vicious climb up from the ferry dock.

Since we clearly did not get enough beach time in Rio we took a two hour ferry to the trendy, isolated Morro de São Paulo. Morro is a village reachable only by boat or plane, the village has no paved streets or car traffic. Luggage and freight is moved by young men with their wheelbarrow taxis. The beaches, with their shallow, warm water were perfect for swimming. After renting lounge chairs and an big umbrella, we spent the day on the beach watching the soccer players and enjoying the sun and water. Sadly, even with the umbrella I still ended up with a massive sunburn that soon began peeling until I looked like I was molting.

Our to short stay in Brazil ended with one more night at an airport hotel in Rio and a flight to Santiago, Chile. We were looking forward to our cycling tour in Chile’s Lakes District.